What kind of luxury boutique onsen ryokan is Araya Totoan in Yamashiro Onsen?
In the hot and humid rainy season of June, we arrived at Kagaonsen Station, 30 minutes by express train from Kanazawa Station. Previously, when I got off the train at Kagaonsen Station and looked around, the station looked like a deserted country station, but it seems to have been recently renovated and is now a slightly more modern building. From Kagaonsen Station, we took a free shuttle bus to the traditional onsen ryokan.
Although the luxury onsen ryokan is located in the center of the bustling Yamashiro Onsen district, entering through the tasteful, hideaway-like entrance revealed a surprisingly quiet space. It seemed to rain lightly from time to time, and the red pines and stone pavement planted at the entrance looked even more vivid in the rain. At the entrance was a mustard-colored noren, an umbrella made of Japanese paper, and a traditional stone wash basin nearby. I peeked inside it and found a spring that had been bubbling for more than 100 years, with hot spring eggs ready for breakfast.
Upon entering through the noren curtain, I found myself lost in another world of historical paintings, ceramics, sophisticated furniture, and Isamu Noguchi’s Japanese paper lighting. It’s a historic and venerable place that used to be a samurai residence. When we arrived, the staff was already waiting at the entrance.
We took off our shoes at the entrance and walked on the tatami mats, and the first thing that caught our eyes were the famous raven impulse painted by Rosanjin. The luxury onsen ryokan is said to have been frequently visited by the artist Rosanjin, so there were various Rosanjins’ works on display on the grounds.
We checked in while enjoying the view of the beautifully landscaped courtyard with Ryukyu Tatami mats in the lobby and hallways. Next to the front desk, there were complimentary sparkling wine, sparkling wine, and natural water service available until 18:00.
Then after a while, the staff guided us to our room. The hallway and elevator were filled with the good smell of tatami mats. This time we stayed in a room called Wakana on 2F. It was a quiet room facing a mountain garden with a private hot spring. Upon entering the room, the staff prepared Nama-fu and green match powder tea for us. It was a very smooth and palatable Japanese sweet. The room also had an Isamu Noguchi lamp made of Japanese paper with a unique silhouette, flowers in the alcove, and twin beds on tatami mats in the next room.
Then the private onsen was made entirely of Japanese cypress, from the walls to the bathtub. The scent of the cypress was relaxing. The bathtub was divided into upper and lower sections, with the upper section hot and the lower section lukewarm in temperature. The sliding shoji windows with bamboo screens called Sudare provided a view of the moss growing on the surface of the mountains while bathing in the hot spring, adding to the quaint atmosphere. When I soaked in the private hot spring bath before breakfast, the soft divine morning sun shone through the shoji windows. Nine of the 18 rooms have private hot spring baths.
Then at the end of the corridor on the fourth floor, there was a wonderful bar in Arisugawa-Sanso villa, a traditional wooden building that is an important cultural asset. The first surprise was the placement of Japanese-style lanterns along the corridor leading to the bar, creating an indescribably mystical ambience, as if one had wandered into an Edo period samurai residence. In the refined beautiful Japanese-style room, a bar counter was set up and the elegantly illuminated Rosanjin’s hanging scrolls and china were a sight to behold. On the day we stayed, complimentary coffee was available here during the day and it was open as a romantic bar at night. This place is truly worth a visit. Also, the tea room on the third floor displays calligraphy and paintings as well as vessels.
Then there are three large communal hot spring baths here in total. Each has a different atmosphere, creating a unique sense of value. The space of each bath itself was truly art. They were more wonderful than any of the large communal hot spring baths in the ryokans I have stayed in. The communal bath called Ruriko has an indoor bath and an outdoor bath. The indoor bath had hiba wood walls that were constantly lit up and smelled of wood, creating a magical atmosphere that made me feel as if I were in a forest. There were “hot” and “lukewarm” hot springs to choose from. The open-air bath made of hewn stone felt oppressive, perhaps because it was surrounded by buildings.
Then in the communal hot springs called Gensenkaku, there were paintings on the pillars and walls, probably by Rosanjin. Also, in the communal bath called Karasumaruyu, the entire wall is black, and a monumental white stone object is placed in a horizontal window in the background of the bathtub. It is truly an art of black and white contrast. Free beer, champagne, and natural water were available near the entrance to the large bath. The changing room areas were always stocked with face and bath towels and a wide variety of amenities.
Then we enjoyed an impressive kaiseki meal with delicate flavors. The dish was made with local premium ingredients such as abalone, rock oysters, sweet sea bream, and natural sweetfish. They also used dishes that were the work of Rosanjin.
For us, our stay here were a luxurious time when we could feel the unchanging traditional beauty of Japan with our whole body. All in all, it was a valuable experience. The property would be great for couples, families, small groups, solo travelers or business persons. We saw few other guests during our stay. I used the communal baths before dinner and after breakfast, but most guests did not seem to use them.
If I were to mention a drawback, Yamashiro Onsen itself, where this ryokan is located, has a somewhat desolate atmosphere. It is not as vibrant a hot spring resort as I had expected. Once you check in, you probably won’t feel like changing into your yukata, putting on your geta, and going for a walk as many times as you like during your stay. There are fewer restaurants, cafes, and souvenir shops than you might expect. It is a real shame, because Yamashiro-Onsen is a traditional onsen town with some great traditional ryokans like Araya Totoan.
Check Availability and Pricing for the ryokan on Agoda
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Is the location easy to access?
Free shuttle service is available from Kagaonsen Station. It takes 15min by car. You need to book it in advance. For reference, it takes about 30 minutes from Kanazawa Station to Kagaonsen Station by express train. If you take a local train, it takes about 50 minutes.
From Komatsu Airport to the ryokan is a 30-minute cab ride and costs about JPY6,000.
Where is the best accommodation for anniversaries?
If you are looking for a good place for a special occasion, I would recommend it. This is a luxury onsen ryokan for adults. The staff arranges flowers and cakes to celebrate an anniversary at additional charges if you request in advance.
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Rooms I would recommend?
If you are going to stay here, I would recommend a room with a private hot spring bath, but there are also wonderful communal hot spring baths on the grounds.
Then, if you don’t want to sleep on Japanese-style mattresses in tatami rooms, you may want to book a room with western twin beds on tatami mats.
How about toiletries & in-room amenities?
All of the amenities are taken care of including enough toiletries, a green tea set, Japanese sweets, yukatas, and skincare products. The Free Wi-Fi reception was good on the property. Room service is not available.
How about In-house Facilities?
There are wonderful communal indoor and outdoor hot springs on the grounds. The spring quality is amazing, very thick, smooth, and moist. All of them are open from 14:00-10:30 the following morning. If you have tattoos, you may not be permitted to use the communal bathing areas.
Then Araya Totoan is not a universal design. There are some steps. Wheelchairs are available for borrowing, though. If you bring people with weak legs, you may want to inform the staff in advance as they can arrange a room near the entrance. Also, you may want to book a room with a private hot spring as you wouldn’t need to move around once you enter your room.
There were no vending machines, but there is a convenience store within a 15-minute walk.
How about meals?
Kaga kaiseki food was top-notch. It may be a little challenging for the western palate, but it’s well worth trying. We were impressed by each dish. All meals are served at a private room in a dining area. If you bring small children, they are served in your room.
If you visit in winter, kaiseki dishes to enjoy Kaga crab are offered. You can enjoy the flavor of the crab brought out by each cooking method, such as crab sashimi, grilled crab, boiled crab, and crab miso.
After dinner, don’t forget to visit the bar in the annex called Arisugawa-Sanso even if you don’t drink. The ambiance is amazing for adults. They have a large selection of wine and Japanese sake. Also, non-alcoholic beverages were available. It’s open from 20:30-23:00.
Then, as far as I know, there were several local izakaya and sushi restaurants near the ryokan. If you do go out to eat, you might want to make reservations in advance, as most of the local papa-mama stores close early.
How about services?
This is child-friendly. Staff provides meals, tableware, and yukatas for small children if you request in advance. Then they can hold your luggage before check-in and after check-out.
My impressions
The staff are all professional, elegant, and sophisticated. We were impressed by their hospitality. If you expect 5 star hotel service, this is the place to stay. We would definitely stay here again.
Have a nice trip! Welcome to receive any questions about Araya Totoan from the below space. Check Availability and Pricing for the ryokan on Agoda
Info about Araya Totoan
| Style | Luxury Traditional Onsen Ryokan |
|---|---|
| Check-in and out time |
14:00/11:00 |
| Estimated Price | 100,000JPY for 2 adults per room |
| Contact E-mail |
info@araya-totoan.com |
| Internet Connection | Free WiFi |
| Facility Information | Wheelchairs are available Pets are not allowed The free parking lot is available Valet parking is available |
| Location | Araya Totoan’s MAP |
| Access | Free shuttle bus from KagaOnsen station |
| Address and TEL | Tel +81 |
| Official Homepage | Araya Totoan’s HP |
*All information above is as of the date that I posted on my blog.
Still not sure where to stay in Kanazawa, Ishikawa?
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Alternatively, you could leave a message at the below space for advice.
Hi Hanna, I’m Lynda nice to meet you. This will be my husband and I first time visit to Japan. We only have 8 hours or so in Kanazawa because it’s one of the port we stop for our 9 days cruise. We are very much want to experience the Japanese hot springs traveling from the cruise terminal on our own. Please let us know which near by onsen should we visit for a private place where we can soak into the hot springs that does not require us to be completely naked in a community pool filled with strangers for a few hours.
Hi Lynda, nice to meet you and thank you for your message.
I will look it up and get back to you in a few days.
Please give me some time. The port you will be stopping at is Kanazawa Port, right?
Hi Lynda
Private family onsen baths in ryokans and hotels are generally available only to staying guests. Also, some large ryokans allow only large communal onsen baths to be used by non-guests, but these are few and far between in Kanazawa.
As far as I could find, there was one public bathhouse onsen used by locals. The public bathhouse here also has several private family onsen baths. They can be used in complete privacy. Reservations are required in advance. However, since this is a place used by locals, you will not be able to soak in the onsen and enjoy wonderful Japanese gardens and spectacular views like you would at a luxury ryokan or hotel. In other words, it is not a special place. I would not recommend that you come all the way to the ancient capital of Kanazawa and spend your time in this public bathhouse, but please refer to the map below. The location is about 35 minutes by cab from Kanazawa Port. The taxi fare is around JPY5000.