What kind of traditional onsen ryokan is Motoyu Ishiya in Kanazawa?
In early October, after a hot summer and cooler weather, we took the JR Ishikawa line from Kanazawa station, got off at the second stop, Morimoto station, and took a cab to the inn where we would be staying. From the cab, the countryside was full of greenery. Tonight’s inn was located in a quiet mountainous area. It was a ryokan, an impressive wooden structure with a traditional tiled roof.
When we opened the sliding door and entered the inn, we were warmly welcomed by the staff. In the reception lobby, we had green tea and went through a brief check-in procedures. When I listened carefully, I could hear the sound of insects, birds chirping, trees and grass swaying in the wind.
The onsen ryokan was decorated with historical exhibits, furniture, furnishings, and ceramics here and there. It was like a historical museum. It was interesting to look around them, one by one, with great interest. You can tell that they are still taking good care of things that have been used for a long time. It was not a sophisticated, modern ryokan, but everywhere was well cleaned and made us feel nostalgic.
Looking out the window, I saw a well-kept garden with straight cedar trees, a torii gate, yellow leaves falling on moss-covered stones, bell bugs chirping at dusk, and time passing slowly. It was a world that could not be experienced in the big city. In the garden, there was a Yakushido hall, a shrine, and a Jizo statue that had been carefully protected by their ancestors for generations. On a brisk morning with sparrows chirping, we took a leisurely walk around the area.
We stayed in a room called Kujaku-no-ma. This room is a traditional Japanese room that was moved from a villa used by a wealthy merchant in the past. A long brazier with drawers was placed in the center of the Japanese-style room, and the sliding screens called fusuma with cloisonne pulls, red walls, and carvings gave the room a Kaga flavor. In the alcove, pretty wildflowers growing nearby were arranged. From the room’s narrow wooden passageway called engawa, we could enjoy the moss-covered garden and the view created by the gentle light and shadows of the mountain village.
Then the ryokan features hot spring is its rare mall hot spring. Mole hot spring is a hot spring that gushes out through the lignite layer, which was formed by the accumulation of plants over a long period of time. The hot spring was amber in color and smooth to the touch.
In the garden of the ryokan also has a Noh stage made of cypress from floor to ceiling and painted with a magnificent pine tree, and on the second floor there is a hall overlooking the Noh stage. It was a special experience to spend time at night looking at the lit-up stage. Seeing the autumn leaves fall on the roof of the Noh stage, I felt the arrival of autumn.
We also had dinner while gazing at the illuminated Noh stage. Sake went well with the local cuisine provided. Although there were no high-grade ingredients, the local ingredients were carefully prepared, and the hospitality was very much appreciated.
If I were to venture a fault, it would be the lack of modern facilities. This ryokan is located in a mountain village that retains a quaint atmosphere. The traditional guest rooms are furnished in the same way as they were back then, allowing guests to enjoy the nostalgic ambience. The air conditioning is not state-of-the-art, so it may be cold in winter and hot in summer. This is the perfect place for those who want to spend a nostalgic moment in the good old days of Kanazawa. Also, because it is a traditional building, there are many steps and no elevator. The ryokan is not suitable for people with disabilities or the elderly.
Check availability and pricing for the ryokan on Agoda
Is the location easy to access?
Get off a train at Morimoto Station, the 2nd station from Kanazawa station. Both local trains are available, JR Ishikawa line bound for Toyama and JR Nanao line bound for Nanao. Then it is a 6-7 minute cab ride from Morimoto Station to the onsen ryokan. Cab fare is about JPY1,500.
Alternatively, you can take a West Japan JR Bus for Nakao from the number 4 bus stop of Kanazawa Station’s East exit (Kenrokuenguchi) at 14:20 or 17:40. Then get off at Fukayamotoyu Bus Stop. The onsen ryokan is in front of the bus stop. It takes 40min from Kanazawa Station. There are only 2 buses in a day. If this is your first visit to Kanazawa, you may be worried about where you should get off so you may want to show the below Japanese sentence to a bus driver when you get on a bus. Then you wouldn’t miss the bus stop even if you fall asleep.
Please let me know when you reach “Fukayamotoyu Bus Stop”.
Rooms I would recommend?
If you stay here, I would recommend the traditional Japanese-style rooms called “Kujaku-no-ma” or “Tori-no-ma”. These rooms are very unique, but are not functional and not user friendly. Housekeeping is excellent, though.
The two rooms above are located on the second floor, up a flight of stairs. It is not suitable for children under elementary school age, as the sound tends to echo downstairs.
Then there is no soundproofing in the traditional wooden buildings. I sometimes heard footsteps upstairs, talking in the hallway, and doors slamming. If you are a light sleeper, this may bother you.
Then the room called Yuri-no-Ma and the annex called Tempogura has twin beds. If you do not like sleeping on futons on tatami mats, please book those rooms. Also, there are no rooms with private hot spring baths. This is a traditional inn.
How about toiletries & in-room amenities?
All of the amenities are taken care of including minimum toiletries, yukatas, Japanese sweets, and a Japanese tea set, etc. Room service is not available. Also, free WiFi reception was patchy in our room when we stayed in 2018, but we could connect to the internet around the lobby only.
How about In-house Facilities?
There are indoor and outdoor communal hot spring baths in brownish-yellow color. There is no view from the communal baths. The spring quality is truly amazing, thick, and like skin lotion. All of them are open from 6:00 to 23:00. If you have tattoos, you may not be permitted to use the communal bathing areas.
Then there is a vending machine for drinks in-house, but there is no convenience store nearby. You may want to buy your necessities before coming here.
How about services?
If you have time, you may want to check in before 5 PM, and let’s join a free tour of a Noh stage. That’s a great experience. The free tour is scheduled not every day. Then they can hold your luggage before check-in and after check-out.
How about meals?
The local food was good, but perhaps a little difficult for Western palates. The portions are also small, so we ordered Noto beef steaks for an additional charge of JPY4,400. The Noto beef was melt-in-your-mouth tender, and the flavor of the meat filled my mouth. Basically all meals are served in the dining room. If you stay in the annex called Tempogura, all meals are served in the room. *Special meals for those with food allergies or dietary restrictions cannot be provided.
Then, as far as I know, there is no restaurant around here. You may want to book a room including meals.
My impressions
Overall, the price range is reasonable. The staff is not sophisticated, but perhaps that is also a good thing. In recent years, traditional ryokan with hospitality like this one have become rare, so this is a valuable inn. I would like to visit here again when I miss the Japanese countryside.
Have a nice trip! Welcome to receive any questions about Motoyu Ishiya from the below space. Check availability and pricing for the ryokan on Agoda
Info about Motoyu Ishiya
| Style | Traditional Onsen Ryokan |
|---|---|
| Check-in and out time |
15:00/10:00 |
| Estimated Price | 45,000 JPY for 2 adults per room |
| Contact | Call at +80 76-258-2133 from overseas Call at 076-258-2133 from domestic |
| Internet Connection | Free WiFi in the lobby only |
| Facility Information | Wheelchairs are not available Pets are not allowed The free parking lot is available |
| Location | Motoyu Ishiya’s MAP |
| Access | 6-7min by Taxi from Morimoto station |
| Address and TEL | Tel +81 76-258-2133 |
| Official Homepage | Motoyu Ishiya’s HP |
*All information above is as of the date that I posted on my blog.
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