What kind of onsen ryokan is Yumoto Choza?
Last night we stayed at Asunaro Ryokan near Takayama Station, checked out around 10:00AM, went sightseeing around Takayama Station with my friends, had lunch, and then from Takayma Nohi Bus Center we took the nohi bus for ShinHotaka Ropeway via Fukuji to Yumoto Choza, where we will stay this evening.
When we got off at Fukuji Yurimizaka bus stop, we saw the ryokan with its magnificent gate. The bus stop was right in front of the ryokan. A curtain made of woven rope hung over the entrance to the massive gate next to a parking lot, and as we passed through the gate, we felt as if we had entered the world of a Japanese folktale.
Lanterns made of traditional Japanese paper, called washi, were hung in the corridor crossing from the gate. After about 30 meters, the main building finally came into view. At the exit of the long corridor crossing, a quaint sunken hearth room was built, where free hot herbal tea was served. Spring water was slowly pouring from a traditional stone wash basin in front of the sunken hearth, and the sound was pleasant to the ears.
I am going straight to the point, the ambience of the gate and entrance was quaint and wonderful, but the ryokan seemed to be understaffed, there was no service or hospitality, and the furniture, interior, and facilities looked tired, so it may not be the ryokan that you would go out of your way to visit and stay at from afar. Also, the food was a bit disappointing, as there were no special dishes that left a lasting impression. Since it was during the pandemic, there seemed to be fewer guests than usual, which was a change from the past. I would like to look forward to the future.
The ryokan was a relocated building of a wealthy farmer’s house built more than 100 years ago. The entrance to the main building was decorated with raccoon dog figurines, barrels, oil umbrellas, and lanterns. We took off our shoes at the spacious entrance. The faint smell of burning wood on a sunken hearth called irori lingered in the air. We arrived before 15:00. The lobby was dark and no one answered when we called out to them. My friends and I were worried, “Is this ryokan even open?” After a while, a staff member came out and turned on the lights.
To the right was a room with a sunken hearth called irori, diagonally in front of us on the right was a vaulted lobby with impressive beams, sofas and tables, a small souvenir shop on the left, and a reception counter in front of us. From the high ceiling of the lobby, slender lights made of thick Japanese paper cast a warm glow. We checked in here and were immediately shown to our room.
This time we stayed in a room type called Matsu-no-ie, and took an elevator up to the second floor. When we opened a heavy lattice-like door, we found a room with a sunken hearth called irori in the center in front of us, and a bedroom with twin beds to the left. To the right was a Japanese-style living room with an attached veranda called engawa. The layout was just right for three women staying together. The room with the irori had a basket with plenty of charcoal for a fire. It was a cold day in March when there was still snow on the ground, so we enjoyed warming up in the irori.
Then, we quickly changed into yukatas and went to communal hot spring baths. The long hallway was decorated with old farm tools, water mills, and chests of drawers. There was also a room with several computers. The PC room is open between 7:30 and 21:30. Further on, there was an entrance to an annex called “Kirino ie,” a long hallway with windows overlooking a quaint garden. Next to the entrance was a lounge room with a cozy-looking sofas, table, and fireplace, and next to that was the entrance to the communal hot spring baths, which had a noren curtain and magnificent lanterns hanging on both sides. This ryokan, with only 27 rooms on its vast grounds, was like a maze.
The communal indoor and outdoor hot spring baths were very spacious. The indoor baths were made of hinoki cypress from ceiling to floor. Looking up at the ceiling, we found another magnificent beam assembled here. There are the three indoor baths, each with a different temperature of hot spring water. The one at the very front was the hottest hot spring. The outdoor baths were also very spacious, and the temperature differed depending on the location.
After enjoying the communal baths, we went to private family hot spring baths. They were located a short distance from the communal baths. We move on, admiring the forests where snowy landscapes remain here and there. On the way, we crossed a quaint bridge over a pond. There are the three private family hot spring baths, each with a lamp at the entrance, red indicating that it is in use and green indicating that it is available. There is no need to go all the way to the private family baths to check on their availability, as there are panels in the communal bath areas indicating their use. They are available 24 hours a day. You can also use them as often as you like, free of charge, when available. The three private family hot spring baths were similar in design, each with its own indoor and outdoor baths. The only difference was whether the indoor baths were stone or cypress baths. The quality of the hot spring was the same as that of the communal baths.
Then, we were thirsty, so we went back to our room, lit a fire in the irori, and enjoyed fresh local sake we had just purchased at the store in the lobby. The local sake was great as we sat around the irori and enjoyed the warmth of the fire. The weather was refreshing during the day, but it got cold in the evenings in Hida Takayama.
Then before we knew it, it was almost dinner time. After another long walk down the hallway, we finally arrived at a dining room. All meals were served in private rooms. The staff showed us to a Japanese-style room with tatami mats. There was an irori table with a horikotatsu and sweetfish, rice cake with miso, and chicken meat were already being grilled on the hearth. When we entered the private room, we could smell the savory smell of burning fish and miso. Appetizers and sashimi were already lined up. We ordered unrefined sake called doburoku, a Hida Takayama specialty, to enjoy with our meal. Doburoku is an easy-to-drink alcoholic beverage that is sweeter and more mild than Japanese sake. The main dish was teppanyaki of Hida beef. Overall, there was no dish that left a special impression on me.
After dinner, we again bought some local sake at the souvenir shop in the lobby, returned to our room, lit the fire in the sunken hearth again, and drank some local sake while warming up. Hida Takayama is home to many “fantastic sake” and many of them are only available here, so it was heaven for us sake lovers.
The next morning, just before 6:00 a.m., we awoke to the sound of clucking chickens. We decided to go to communal outdoor baths along the river. The location was a few minutes walk from the ryokan along a path through a beautiful forest, and we found a cabin built along the river. The view from the outdoor bath was fantastic. Listening to the dynamic flow of the river, I felt as if I had become one with nature. There are also five private family hot spirng baths nearby along the river, all of which are free to use, but since we only stayed one night this time, we did not have time to use them.
After that we went to the dining room around 8:00 and had breakfast in the same private room where we had dinner yesterday. When we entered the private dining room, miso soup was already warming on the hearth, and the aroma of miso whetted our appetite. From the window, we could see a beautiful garden with lush moss. Then after breakfast, we enjoyed the communal baths again and checked out of the ryokan before 10:00.
If I dare to raise a fault, it was overall not sophisticated. I have stayed at Yamazatonoiori Soene, Hidaji, and Katsuragi no Sato in the neighborhood of this ryokan, and all of them were a perfect combination of rural goodness and sophistication, and I was excited just to take a walk around the grounds, but I did not feel that way this time. Since I had come all the way from Tokyo to Hida Takayama, I wanted to stay at a ryokan that would excite me. However, I was satisfied as I enjoyed good conversation and delicious local sake with my best friends I hadn’t seen in a while.
Then, I don’t think there are any rooms with private hot spring baths. However, there are the eight private family baths on the grounds that can be used free of charge whenever available.
Check Availability and Pricing for the ryokan on Agoda
TOP5 Best Ryokans with Private Onsen in Hida Takayama, Gifu
Is the location easy to access?
At Takayama Nohi Bus Center in front of Takayama Station, board the Nohi Bus bound for ShinHotaka Ropeway via Fukuji. Then, get off at Fukuji Yurimizaka bus stop *HO41 in front of the ryokan. The next stop after Fukuji Onsen bus stop is Fukuji Yurimizaka bus stop. It takes around 75min from Takayama Station. Refer to the timetable.
Alternatively, at Takayama Nohi Bus Center, board the Nohi Bus bound for ShinHotaka Ropeway via Ipposui. Then, get off at Fukuji Onsen-guchi bus stop *HO45
A free shuttle service is available only from Fukuji Onsen-guchi bus stop. You need to book it in advance.
Then, if this is your first visit the Hida Takayama area, you may be worried about where you should get off so you may want to show the below Japanese sentence to a bus driver when you get on a bus.
福地ゆりみ坂のバス停に着いたら、教えてください。
Kindly let me know when you reach Fukuji Yurimizaka bus stop.
福地温泉口のバス停に着いたら、教えてください。
Kindly let me know when you reach Fukuji Onsen-guchi bus stop.
If you have any questions about how to get there, please message me anytime below.
Rooms I would recommend?
If you are staying during the cold season, we would recommend a room with a hibachi or irori, a Japanese heating device that uses charcoal as fuel.
How about toiletries & in-room amenities?
All of the amenities are taken care of including minimum toiletries, samue outfits, Japanese snacks, and a green tea set, etc. Free Wifi reception was good. Then room service is available from 15:00-21:00. Free green tea and english tea were available in the lobby. There is a vending machine. There was a souvenir shop in the lobby, selling candy, snacks, and alcohol. There is no convenience store nearby. You may want to buy your necessities before coming here.
How about In-house Facilities?
There are wonderful outdoor and indoor communal hot spring baths. Also, there are 8 private family hot spring baths which you can use for free whenever they are not occupied. The spring quality is thick, creamy, and moist. They are open from 15:00-10:00 the following morning. *If you have tattoos, use the private family baths instead.
Then Yumoto Choza is not a universal design. There are some steps around a dining area. If you bring people with weak legs, you may want to inform the staff in advance as they can arrange a room near the lobby.
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How about meals?
The local irori food was OK. We sat around the irori and enjoyed various cooking while keeping warm. Also, they have a nice Japanese sake list to complement the meal. All meals were served in a private dining room. Dinner starts at 18:00 or 18:30. You need to check in by 18:00 if you have dinner on the property. Breakfast starts at 8:00.
If you have any food allergies, please write them in a comment box when you book a room with meals. They probably wouldn’t be able to prepare alternative food if you request on that day. They probably wouldn’t be able to prepare alternative food if you request on that day.
Then, as far as I know, there is no restaurant around here. You may want to book a room including meals.
Have a nice trip! Welcome to receive any questions about Yumoto Choza from the below space. Check Availability and Pricing for the ryokan on Agoda
Info about Yumoto Choza
| Style | Onsen Ryokan |
|---|---|
| Check in / out | 15:00/ 10:00 |
| Estimated Price | 40,000 JPY for 2 adults per room |
| Contact | |
| Internet Connection | Free Wifi in the ryokan |
| Facility Information | Wheelchairs are not available Pets are not allowed The free parking lot is available |
| Location | Yumoto Choza’s MAP |
| Access | Free shuttle bus from Fukuji Onsen-guchi bus stop |
| Address and TEL | Tel +81 |
| Official Homepage | Yumoto Choza’s HP |
*All information above is as of the date that I posted on my blog.
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