Gora Hanaougi Madoka No Mori

Gora Hanaougi Madoka No Mori

What kind of ryokan is Gora Hanaougi Madoka No Mori?

On a cold day in late February, when the sky was covered with thick clouds, I decided to go on an onsen trip with a friend who lives in Nagoya. I took the Shinkansen from Tokyo Station and my friend took the Shinkansen from Nagoya Station. We met at Odawara Station and had lunch together at a nice sushi restaurant. Then, we took Hakone Tozan Railway, got off at Hakone-Yumoto Station, transferred to Hakone Tozan Railway bound for Gora, and arrived at Gora Station at around 2:00 PM. From there, I called the ryokan staff to request a pickup, and a comfortable Toyota Alphard arrived about 5 minutes later. We got in the car and from there it was a five-minute drive to Gora Hanaougi Madoka no Mori, where we would be staying for the night. When we got out of the car, there was a strong north wind blowing and we felt even more freezing cold.

Then we entered the black hut-like building that came into view and took the elevator up to the second floor, where we were greeted by a staff member dressed in a kimono. After crossing a small bridge, an old-fashioned windmill was set up at the entrance to the inn, under which Nishikigoi carp were swimming coldly. The sound of the waterwheel turning and water falling was pleasant to our ears.

The exterior of the ryokan is not luxurious, as it was purchased and renovated from a company-owned recreational facility, but once inside the building, we were amazed by the stunning interior, furnishings, and decor. We were overwhelmed by the unique aesthetics of the building, including the round windows hollowed out of the walls, the tatami-mat flooring, and the magnificent ceiling beams and pillars. The counter in the lobby is also made from a single piece of splendid Jindai zelkova, behind which is a gold screen painted by Hokusai Katsushika. A lot of famous woods such as zelkova, cedar, and cypress, which were collected from all over Japan over a period of 20 years, were used in abundance. The furniture in the lobby was made of wood crafts from Hida Takayama, and a table made of a Jindai zelkova stump was impressive. Then the entire building, from the lobby, guest rooms, corridors, elevators, to the communal baths, is covered with tatami mats, making them very comfortable. In winter, the building is equipped with floor heating, which uses the heat from the hot spring. The aroma of wood and tatami mats blended well together and made us feel very relaxed.

Here we were served green tea and Japanese sweets while going through the check-in procedures. The welcome drink was a choice of coffee, tea, green tea, juice, or beer. After a while, the staff showed us to our room. The room we used this time was a deluxe room on the third floor called Ebine. This deluxe room faces toward Hakone Sengokuhara with a nice view. There was a bedroom and a living room, and it was just the right size for two people to stay. The furniture was wooden crafts from Hida Takayama in Gifu Prefecture, with simple yet elegant and warm curves. There was also a TV in front of the bed, where you could borrow DVDs, and a reading light by the bed was convenient. Then deck chairs and a table are also provided on the balcony, allowing visitors to get close to Hakone’s nature. Unfortunately, the day was covered with thick clouds, and the mountains of Hakone, which should have been visible in the distance, could not be seen at all.

Then we decided to change into yukatas and go to communal hot spring baths on B1 to warm up our cold bodies. We really wanted to take a private hot spring bath in our room, but it was too cold outside, so we decided to enjoy the communal bath first. There were wonderful large indoor and outdoor hot spring baths. There are three outdoor baths, the frontmost one is hotter, the middle one is a bit hotter, and the back one is lukewarm. We alternated back and forth between a lukewarm bath and a hot bath. Surrounded by the Hakone forest, the outdoor baths are famous for its sense of openness and its view of the seasonal landscape, but after a while it started snowing, so we warmed up in the indoor bath. Then in the changing room, a luxurious sofa was placed for relaxing after taking a bath. There was also a room near the communal baths with complimentary cold tea and massage chairs.

When we returned to our room, we looked out the window and saw that it had started snowing earlier, turning the whole area into a silver world. We sat on deck chairs on the balcony, sipped beer from the mini-bar, and admired the snow that had been falling. Hakone is colder than Tokyo, but it rarely snows, so it was a blessing to be able to enjoy the snowy landscape.

It was almost time for dinner, so we went to a dining room and the staff showed us to a private room. All meals will be served in private rooms or meal served in your room. If you stay in a room with a dining room, you will be able to eat in your room. Dinner is a Kyoto-style kaiseki meal prepared by a chef trained at a Kyoto ryotei restaurant, and includes local vegetables, fresh fish from the Sagaminada Sea, and the highest grade Hida beef. The beef is worth eating at least once. We were very satisfied with the kaiseki cuisine here. Overall, I think the portions are on the large side.

After dinner, we went to a bar next to the dining room. The bar is nice and a must visit if you are staying here. It was a traditional warehouse that was used over 100 years ago and has been relocated. Entering through the massive door, we found another counter made of a magnificent single piece of Jindai Zelkova, and many bottles of alcohol were displayed on the racks on the wall. It was truly a hideaway space where one could relax after dinner. The whiskies were mainly single malt. Cocktails can also be enjoyed. I would recommend the original called Madoka no Mori. It is a forest-inspired cocktail with mint cherries. Lychee and melon liqueur are also used in this cocktail, making it very smooth and easy to drink. It’s open from 20:00 to 24:00. It was sometimes closed during the coronavirus pandemic.

When we returned to our room and looked outside, it was still snowing. I thought I would enjoy the private hot spring bath on the balcony, but I was tired tonight and decided to rest.

When I woke up the next morning, it was only 6:30 a.m. and dark outside, so I brewed a cup of coffee from an illy coffee machine and sat on a deck chair on the balcony drinking coffee and waiting for the sunrise in the cold. The snow that had been falling since last night had already stopped and the forest was silent. Occasionally, snow on the branches could be heard falling. Gradually the area became brighter, the dark forest turned purple, and as the morning sun began to rise, the pure white snow glistened, and as I felt the cold wind, I was impressed by the harshness and mystical beauty of nature. After being on the balcony for a while, my body started to get cold, so I enjoyed the private hot spring bath before breakfast. The nice aroma of hinoki cypress and hot spring water was pleasant, and the private bath with a view of the snow was exceptional. It was like being in another world. I almost wished that time would stop at this point.

Then when we went out on the balcony after breakfast, it started snowing again, so we checked out before Hakone Tozan Railway stopped, and had the staff take us to Gora station. We really wanted to stay in our room until 11:00 a.m., but we had no choice.

If I had to point out a drawback, it would be that the standard rooms are cramped and the views from the private outdoor baths attached to the standard rooms are not so good. Therefore, this time we decided to stay in a deluxe room with a good view. If you are going to stay here, we would recommend you to avoid the standard rooms. Also, when booking a room, you may want to request a room with a view.

Then this is a luxury ryokan for adults. You need to be at least 18 years old to stay here. Not suitable for families or groups with small children.

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Is the location easy to access?

If you are going from Tokyo Station, take the Shinkansen bullet train to JR Odawara Station. Then, transfer to Hakone Tozan Railway or Odakyu Romancecar  to Hakone-Yumoto Station. From there, transfer to Hakone Tozan Railway and get off at Gora Station. Then, transfer to Hakone Tozan Cable Car and get off at Sounzan Station. *All Hakone Tozan Railways departing from Odawara Station terminate at Hakone-Yumoto Station. Hakone Tozan Railways bound for Gora require a transfer at Hakone-Yumoto Station.

Alternatively, take Odakyu Romancecar from Shinjuku Station to Hakone-Yumoto Station. From there, transfer to Hakone Tozan Railway and get off at Gora Station. Then, transfer to Hakone Tozan Cable Car and get off at Sounzan Station.

Free shuttle service is available from Sounzan or Gora Station between 9:00-11:00, 15:00-18:00. Please call 0460-82-4100 when you arrive during the above times. Advance reservations are not required.

Then, if you are taking the Shinkansen from Tokyo Station to JR Odawara Station, you need to pay attention to your luggage. Please check here for details. When boarding the Shinkansen, luggage whose total of three sides exceeds 160 cm requires advance reservation of a seat with an oversized luggage space. Baby strollers, musical instruments, bicycles, surfboards, etc. are excluded. Items may be brought in as long as they are placed in a special bag and can stand up.

Passengers bringing oversized baggage without an advance reservation will be charged a carry-on fee of 1,000 JPY. In such cases, the baggage needs to be placed in an area designated by the crew. Also, large luggage is not allowed in unreserved seats on the Shinkansen. Then, children under 6 years old usually do not need a ticket, but if a preschooler uses the Shinkansen, a reserved seat ticket for preschoolers is required to be purchased.

On Odakyu Romancecars, the size of luggage is limited to a total of no more than 250 centimeters on three sides and no longer than 2 meters in length. The weight is limited to 30 kg, and up to two pieces may be carried on board as long as they do not interfere with the operation of the train or inconvenience other passengers. Exercise equipment such as ski boards, snowboards, bicycles, etc. may be brought in as long as they are placed in a special bag and can stand up. Strollers are folded and placed in front of the seats. Then normally, children under 6 years of age do not need a ticket, but when using a seat on an Odakyu Romancecar, a child’s express ticket and a ticket for children are required. However, if you hold a child on your lap, a limited express ticket and a boarding pass are not required. Please refer to the info.

Where is the best accommodation for anniversaries in Hakone?

If you are looking for a nice place for a special occasion, the property would be one of the best. The staff arranges cakes to celebrate an anniversary at an additional charge if you request in advance. There are only 20 rooms. We hardly saw other guests during our stay.
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Rooms I would recommend?

As mentioned above, if you are going to stay here, I would recommend a deluxe or a suite room with a mountain view. We fully enjoyed our private one until check-out time. All rooms have twin beds on tatami mats and private hot spring baths, but each room has a different layout and view. Do not expect a view from the standard rooms. Then If you are traveling alone, you will be in standard rooms unless you request otherwise.

How about toiletries & in-room amenities?

All of the amenities are taken care of including enough toiletries, pajamas, yukatas, samue outfits, green tea bags, a complimentary mini-bar including beer, orange juice, perrier, etc.  Also, a humidifier, an illy coffee machine, and a DVD player were placed in our room. You can travel light. Free Wifi reception was good in the building. Room service is not available. There is no vending machine. There is no convenience store nearby. You may want to buy your necessities before coming here.

How about In-house Facilities?

There are wonderful indoor and outdoor communal hot springs. They are open from 5:00-10:00, 15:00-24:00.  *If you have tattoos, you may not be permitted to use the communal bathing area.

There are two hot stoned baths. One is set at 50°C and the other at 45°C, so you can choose your favorite. The hot stoned baths cost JPY1,800 for 45 minutes, and advance reservations are required. Available from 14:00 to 24:00.

Then the ryokan is not a universal design. Wheelchairs are available for borrowing, though. There were some steps to get to the communal hot spring baths and in the lobby. If you are bringing someone with weak legs, it might be a good idea to let the staff know in advance so they can arrange a room near the elevator.
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Then there is a spa treatment shop. You need to make an appointment it. A short distance from the main building, in the forest, is a spa building with two spa treatment rooms. 

How about meals?

As mentioned above, the food was excellent for both dinner and breakfast. There is a nice wine list to complement your meal. You need to check in by 18:00 if you have dinner on the property. Breakfast was Japanese only, no western food.

All meals will be served in private rooms or in your own room. Some suites and deluxe rooms have a dining room, and those with a dining room will have room meals.

If you have any food allergies, please write them in the comment box when you book a room with meals. They probably wouldn’t be able to prepare alternative food if you request on that day. 

Then, as far as I know, there is no restaurant near the property. You may want to book a room including meals unless you have a car.

My impressions

All staff is excellent, professional and courteous. The price range is probably reasonable considering the service, hospitality, facilities, and food. We would like to visit again in a different season.

Have a nice trip!  Welcome to receive any questions about Gora Hanaougi Madoka No Mori from the below space. Check Availability and Pricing for the ryokan on agoda

Info about Gora Hanaougi Madoka No Mori

Style Luxury Onsen Ryokan
Check-in and out times
15:00/11:00
Estimated Price 80,000 JPY for 2 adults per room
Contact E-mail
info@madokanomori.com
Internet Connection Free WiFi in the ryokan
Facility Information Wheelchairs are not allowed in some areas
Pets are not allowed
The free parking lot is available
Location Gora Hanaougi Madoka No Mori’s MAP
Access Refer to the above
Address and TEL 〒250-0408 Kanagawa, Ashigarashimo-gun,
Hakone-machi, Gōra, Hakone Gora1320-862
Tel +81 460-82-4100

*All information above is as of the date that I posted on my blog.

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