Musashino Bekkan

Musashino Bekkan

What kind of traditional onsen ryokan is Musashino Bekkan?

In mid-November, we decided to stay at Musashino Bekkan, this time to relax in a hot spring while viewing the autumn leaves. We took the express train Romance Car from Shinjuku Station, got off at Hakone-Yumoto Station, and transferred to the Hakone Tozan Railway. We got off at the second stop, Miyanoshita Station. Then staff picked us up from the station. After passing under the elevated Hakone Tozan Railway, the inn came into view. After passing under the elevated Hakone Tozan train made of red bricks, the ryokan came into view. Next to the entrance was a bamboo grove, creating a charming atmosphere. As we got out of the car and entered the building, we saw a dynamic ikebana arrangement in front of a magnificent lacquer-lacquered black stand. There was a faint scent of calming incense. We took off our shoes here and went up. The lobby, hallway, and even the elevator were all covered with tatami mats, so just walking around made me feel comfortable. We had tea and bean curd cake called kuzumochi in the lounge next to the lobby. The lounge was decorated with gorgeous gold folding screens, antique furniture, and a gramophone.

After a while, a staff member in a kimono guided us to our room. This time we stayed at Kaede, a suite with a private outdoor hot spring bath on 3F. Upon entering the room, we first saw a Japanese-style room with a large kotatsu. Here we had dinner and breakfast. Next to the room was a living room with a large TV and sofa, and to the left of the living room was a bedroom. At the far end of the bedroom, there was a deck chair where you can relax while reading a book. Anyway, this suite was spacious. The large terrace overlooks the mountains of Hakone colored by autumn leaves, and there is also a private outdoor hot spring. It is a small ryokan with only 20 rooms in total. The other rooms are old and need to be renovated soon, but this suite, which was renovated in 2011, was easy to use and cozy.

Then, the ryokan features three wonderful private family hot spring baths and communal hot spring baths on the premises. We reserved time slots to use two private family hot spring baths when we checked in; only one of the three private family hot spring baths is available at any given time. Reservations for the private family hot springs are on a first-come, first-served basis, so it is best to check in early. If you are staying here, don’t forget to take all private family onsens as well. The hot spring baths in the forest were exceptional.

We spent some time relaxing on the terrace of our room, enjoying the view of the Hakone mountains in the autumn leaves. After leaving the accomodation building, we walked up and down the stone steps until we finally saw a small mountain hut with a roof covered with Japanese cinnamon leaf. Looking down into the forest, we saw a red mountain railroad passing by. Once inside the mountain hut, we found the hot spring water poured into a wooden bath tub. It was great to take a bath in the slightly chilly autumn season in the sunlight leaking through the trees in the forest. We would recommend taking the private hot spring bath called Yugoya Yamanoyu in the daytime when the sun is shining.

After that, we headed to a private family hot spring bath called Yobanashi no yu, which is located on the fourth floor of the accomodation building and is available whenever available. It took some time to get there because there is only one elevator. This is an indoor hot spring bath, but the window looked out on a small traditional stone garden with lanterns and bamboo, and trees in the background, which added to the quaint ambience. The window was open, so we could feel the breeze from outside. This private family hot spring bath was especially popular because it was easy to use without a reservation.

After two family baths, we were getting thirsty and decided to head to the lounge where the bar was located for beer. This was a place to relax in an adult setting. It was almost time for dinner, so we returned to our room and the staff was preparing it for us. The food here lived up to its good reputation, offering very tasty kaiseki cuisine. The teppanyaki abalone and sirloin steak were especially good. We ordered the sirloin steak as an extra. Perhaps the menue of meals served in the suites and other rooms will be different. The aperitif started with a Bordeaux red wine, and the appetizers with fine ingredients, soup, assorted sashimi, and dessert were top-notch. The portion was only a little too large.

The food here lived up to its good reputation, offering very tasty kaiseki cuisine. The teppanyaki abalone and sirloin wagu steak were especially good. We ordered the sirloin steak as an extra. Perhaps the menue of meals served in the suites and other rooms will be different. The aperitif started with a Bordeaux red wine, and the appetizers with fine ingredients, soup, assorted sashimi, and dessert were top-notch.

After dinner, we headed to a private family hot spring bath called Kakureyu Kunpu. This famous hot spring bath was featured on a poster advertising the Odakyu line from Shinjuku Station. From the sliding door at the entrance of the private family hot spring bath, we walked down a long stone-paved corridor lit by lanterns and up stone steps to an open-air bath of traditional construction. The private family hot spring baths called Yugoya Yamanoyu and Yobanashi no yu, which we enjoyed before dinner, were great, but this private family bath here was also indescribably impressive. Musashino Bekkan offers a Hot spring hopping on the grounds, which is a must for a hot spring lover like me.

When I woke up around 6:30AM in the morning and stepped out onto the terrace, I found a thin mist hanging over the mountains with autumn leaves in Hakone, creating a mystical scene. I enjoyed the outdoor hot spring bath on the terrace while admiring the brightening sunlight and sky as time went by.

Then we had a choice of 7:30, 8:00, or 8:30 for breakfast, so we chose 8:00, but the staff arrived about 30 minutes before and started preparing it. The breakfast was Japanese only, no Western food, but the homemade tofu and yuba were especially delicious.

We had planned to go to communal hot spring baths after breakfast, but ended up spending a luxurious time on the deck chairs on the terrace, enjoying the magnificent view of the Hakone mountains, until we checked out.

If I were to raise a fault, it would be that the facilities tend to deteriorate except for the suite where we stayed. I think it is time for renovation. Perhaps it is even more so because Hakone has many sophisticated ryokans. However, the food and the private family hot spring baths are unquestionably excellent. Considering the location, which is only two hours from Tokyo and easily accessible, we would stay there again. We stayed on a weekday and the room seemed almost full and the atmosphere was lively.

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Is the location easy to access?

Yes, the location is a 25min-walk from Miyanoshita Station.  A free shuttle service is available from the station.  You need to book it in advance.  *Due to the effects of Typhoon 19, the Hakone Tozan Line between Hakone-Yumoto and Gora Station is under a long-term suspension.  During this period of suspension, bus transfers and Rail Replacement bus services will be operating between Hakone-Yumoto and Gora stations.  It will be restored in late July 2020. Refer to the info. The Hakone Tozan Line has restarted since the 23rd of July, 2020.

Rooms I would recommend?

If you stay here, I would recommend the suite with a peaceful mountain view and a private outdoor hot spring bath. Rooms tend to be spacious. Most of the rooms do not have nice views. Some rooms have private outdoor hot spring baths. Then, if you don’t want to sleep on Japanese-style mattresses called futon in a tatami room, you may want to book a room with twin beds.

How about toiletries & in-room amenities?

All of the amenities are taken care of including minimum toiletries, yukatas, bottled water, and a Japanese tea set, etc. Free Wifi reception was good. We could connect to the internet in our room when we stayed in 2021. Room service is available from 7:00-21:00.

How about In-house Facilities?

There are large indoor and outdoor communal hot spring baths. All of them are open for 24H. Also, there are three private family hot spring baths. You can use all of them for free. You need to book two of them in advance when you check in. One of the outdoor private family ones called Yama no yu is located a bit far away from the property and you need to walk on a mountain trail. You may want to book it in the daytime as it would be very dark around there at night. *Please note that if you have tattoos and want to use the communal hot springs, use the private family hot spring baths instead.

Then Musashino Bekkan is not a universal design. There are many steps. If you bring people with weak legs, you may want to book a room on 4F or the suite we stayed. Because the communal baths and one of the private family bath located on 4F.  Also, there is a lift, but wheelchairs wouldn’t be available. I wouldn’t recommend the property if you bring wheelchair users.

Then there is no convenience store nearby. You may want to buy your necessities before coming here.
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How about meals?

The authentic kaiseki experience for dinner and breakfast was excellent. All meals are served in your room. Dinner starts at 18:00 or 18:30 pm. Breakfasts start at 7:30, 8:00, and 8:30.

If you have any allergies, please inform the staff when you book a room with meals. If you request it on the day of your stay, they may not be able to provide you with an alternative meal.

Then, as far as I know, there are no restaurants near the property. You may want to book a room with meals. 

My impressions

The staff tends to be less sophisticated, but the accommodations are traditional, so please respect Japanese traditions.

Have a nice trip!  Welcome to receive any questions about Musashino Bekkan from the below space. You need to inform the staff of your expected arrival time in advance. Check Availability and Pricing for the ryokan on Booking.com or Agoda

Info about Musashino Bekkan

Style Traditional Onsen Ryokan
Check-in and out of times
15:00/11:00
Estimated Price 50,000 JPY for 2 adults per room
Contact E-mail
info@musasino.net
Internet Connection Free wifi in the ryokan
Facility Information
Wheelchairs are not available
Pets are not allowed
The free parking lot is available 
Location Musashino Bekkan’s MAP
Access Free pick-up service from Miyanoshita Station
Address and TEL 425-1 Miyanoshita, Hakone-machi, Ashigarashimo-gun, Kanagawa 250-0404  Tel +81 460-82-4341
Official Homepage Musashino Bekkan’s HP

*All information above is as of the date that I posted on my blog.