What kind of luxury onsen ryokan is Wanosato?
In late May, during the beautiful fresh green season, my husband and I decided to travel to Hida Takayama. Living in Tokyo, we took the Shinkansen from Tokyo Station to Nagoya Station at 10:00. From there, we took an express train to Takayama Station. From the station, we asked a ryokan staff to provide a free shuttle service at 15:20. After a five-minute shuttle bus ride from Takayama Station, the forest and mountains came into view. Then, as the bus drove deeper into the mountains, we suddenly saw a magnificent gate, which heightened our expectations. I am going straight to the point, for those of us living in the concrete jungle of Tokyo, a gassho-style ryokan in the midst of wilderness was truly another world. The luxury onsen ryokan was like a hideaway, with only eight rooms on a 15,000 tsubo site. In particular, we still vividly remember the dynamic view of great nature that we were able to view through a large window while getting into a kotatsu in our room. It was a most wonderful experience.
When we got off the shuttle bus, we found the gate marked “Wa no sato”. After passing through the gate and walking for a while along a path in the forest with beautiful fresh greenery, a main building appeared. Looking at the unique Japanese traditional architecture with its thatched triangular roof, I felt as if I had stepped back in time. At the entrance of the main building, a traditional sake barrel, a miso round barrels, and an oil umbrella all of which were used in the past, were displayed. Also, it had a quaint brown curtain called noren. All buildings on the grounds are relocated gassho-zukuri architecture from Shirakawa-go, which were used by wealthy farmers in the past. Hida wood, traditional crafts and Shunkei lacquerware were lavishly used.
Upon entering the building, there was a magnificent sunken hearth called irori. At the reception counter in one corner of the lobby, beautiful and delicate carvings caught the eye. Then the ceiling was inlaid with English antique stained glass expressed in warm colors. After a brief check-in, we sat around the irori and enjoyed the wonderful ambiance for a while, sipping green tea and Japanese sweets.
Feeling the soft sunlight streaming in through the shoji windows surrounding the lobby, we were deeply moved to think that people over 100 years ago, just like us today, used hearths like this one to keep warm. Then looking up at the ceiling, we could see the massive and magnificent beams that had been skillfully assembled. Hida Takayama has a lot of snowfall, so the building was built to withstand heavy snow. Also, the ceiling was like a vaulted ceiling, allowing for good ventilation and coolness in the summer.
It was early summer when we visited, but Hida Takayama felt much chillier than Tokyo or Nagoya. The weather was just right for warming up by the hearth.
After a while, staff showed us to a traditional Japanese house with annex. The annex we would be staying in this time was called Kurayama. Upon entering the annex through a latticed wood-framed door, one was greeted by a spacious entryway, a magnificent large wood stump floor with Shunkei lacquer, a woven bamboo lampshade on the ceiling, and clay walls that looked great with indirect lighting. There were three rooms in the annex. When we entered the first Japanese-style room, we were impressed by the large floor-to-ceiling window with a spectacular view of a forest with beautiful fresh greenery and a river running through it, which looked like a picture. What a luxury to be able to see the breathtaking nature right in front of us and to have it all to ourselves. It was well worth the trip from Tokyo to Hida Takayama.
Then in this room, the kotatsu was installed. We appreciated the kotatsu because it gets a little cold in the mornings and evenings. Then, next to the room with the kotatsu, there was another Japanese-style living room. Also, at the back of this room was a Korean-style ondol room with a sunken hearth table in the center. Then, the bathroom had a hinoki bath and a window with a view of the forest and the river. The ryokan does not have rooms with private hot spring baths, but all rooms have hinoki baths. We had a very comfortable stay, although the annex was a little too spacious for us.
For a while, we got into the kotatsu, took out some cans of beers from a mini-bar, and gazed at the magnificent view from the large windows while drinking. Listening carefully, we could hear the sound of the river flowing. Then, upon closer inspection, we saw a large gray-faced antelope, a native of this area, took a walk along the riverbank.
Then we decided to visit communal hot spring baths before dinner. There were two communal hot spring baths, one with a rock bath and the other with a hinoki cypress bath. Both were indoor baths with large windows overlooking the forest. In the afternoon, the rock bath was available for men and the hinoki bath for women. In the morning, the rock bath was for women and the hinoki bath was for men. The time we used the baths was already dusk and it was too dark to see the view, so it would be a good idea to use the communal baths in the daytime when it is light. The hinoki bath I used at this time was made of hinoki from ceiling to floor, including the large bathtub, and the scent of hinoki and hot spring water was very relaxing when I entered. I thought the temperature of the hot spring might not be suitable for children because of its high temperature.
We warmed up in the communal hot spring baths and decided to go to a dining area for dinner. The lobby with the sunken hearth, reception desk, dining area, and communal baths were located in the main building.
Then we were ushered into a spacious, high-ceilinged hall. Although not a private dining room, it was a very relaxing space with wooden partitions between tables. Perhaps if you stay in a special room in the annex, you can dine in an attic room that looks like a private room. It’s a very nice and charming room with a great ambience. In the past, it was used by farmer’s servants.
Dinner was a local kaiseki meal, and we were very satisfied with the dishes that carefully brought out the best of the ingredients. The sweetfish was grilled over an open hearth, and the aroma was wonderful. The teppan grill of Hida beef was especially delicious. The portions were average.
After dinner, kappa sake was served free of charge near the irori in the lobby. Kappa sake is made by filling a green bamboo tube with local sake and heating it in the sunken hearth. The green bamboo, when heated, infused oil of the bamboo into sake, further enhancing the flavor and aroma. The sound of the sake being poured was pleasant to our ears. It was a slightly chilly night, so the hot sake tasted even better than usual. After a while, the owner of the ryokan began to talk about the old days in Hida Takayama. I felt an indescribable sense of nostalgia as I thought of how people in the old days must have spent a pleasant time with their neighbors after dinner, drinking local sake by the hearth like this.
The next morning, we woke up before 6:30 a.m., made coffee in a coffee maker, and got into the kotatsu, watching the ever-changing wilderness through the large window. As the morning sun gradually rose, the gentle spring light shone through the fresh green trees, creating a mysterious world. It was as if I had stepped into a storybook world. Then, as I listened carefully, I could hear the sound of the river flowing, and the surface of the water glistened in the sunlight. The scenery here was absolutely gorgeous.
Then we decided to go to the communal hot spring baths before breakfast. I took the stone bath and loved the cave-like ambiance created by the many huge stones. There was also a cold water bath next to the stone bath. From the window in the stone bath, I could see the forest. It was like looking at the forest from the entrance of a cave.
After we enjoyed the communal baths, we went to the dining room and had breakfast at 8:00AM. Breakfast was served at a table by the window overlooking the river. Although it was not a private dining room, it was spacious enough and there was a partition made of wood between each table, so we did not mind the guests next to us.
Breakfast was local food. The grilled fish with miso paste and rice cooked in a kettle were especially delicious. The aroma of the fragrant grilled miso whetted our appetite.
After breakfast, we took a walk in the lovely forest on the grounds for a while, checked out before 10:00 a.m., and had the staff take us to Takayama Station by shuttle bus.
If I dare to raise a drawback, it is that there are many stairs and steps. It cannot be helped that the ryokan is built in the traditional gassho-zukuri style, but it is not suitable for those with limited mobility. It is relatively conveniently located 20 minutes from Takayama Station by shuttle bus, so I would have liked to bring my grandmother next time, but alas. Then, this is a high-class onsen ryokan, but there are no rooms with private onsen. Also, this ryokan has only 8 rooms and is popular, so it was difficult to book a room, but we would like to visit again in other seasons.
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Is the location easy to access?
Free shuttle service is available from the west exit of Takayama Station at 14:20, 15:20, 16:20, or 17:20. Reservations are required by the day before. You will easily recognize a ryokan driver waiting for you when you exit from the west exit of the Station, holding a wooden signboard that says “倭乃里”. It takes 20min by car from the station.
Where is the best accommodation for anniversaries in Takayama?
If you are looking for a good place for a special occasion, the property would be one of the best. The staff will be able to arrange a cake to celebrate an anniversary at an additional charge if you request in advance.
Rooms I would recommend?
If you are going to stay here, I would recommend a traditional Japanese-style house in the annex. We were able to fully enjoy the amazing views while chilling out in our room. Then, if you have small children, you can book a traditional Japanese-style house in the annex. Rooms in the main building cannot be booked. Also, the traditional buildings on the grounds are not fully soundproofed, and footsteps and voices can be heard. If you prefer a quieter room, you may want to stay at a traditional Japanese-style house in the annex. Then, since the ryokan is nestled in the forest, the surroundings are too quiet, but you may notice the sound of the river flowing in the summer because of its high volume of water. If you are concerned, you may want to prepare earplugs.
How about toiletries & in-room amenities?
All of the amenities are taken care of including minimum toiletries, yukatas, bottled water, coffee machines and green tea bags, etc. Complimentary wheat tea is available. Room service is not available. There is no vending machine. There is no convenience store nearby. You may want to buy your necessities before coming here. *Food and drink from outside is prohibited. Free Wifi reception was available around the lobby area only. There was no safety deposit box in our room. We left our valuables at the reception when we checked in.
How about In-house Facilities?
There are communal hot spring baths with beautiful views of the forest on the main building. They are open from 6:30-10:00, 14:00-23:00. *If you have tattoos, you may not be permitted to use the communal bathing area.
Then Wanosato is not a universal design. There are some steps. Wheelchairs are not available for borrowing. If you bring a wheelchair user, I wouldn’t recommend it.
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How about meals?
The local kaiseki cuisine was wonderful. After dinner, rice balls called onigiri were prepared in our room for the midnight snack. Dinner starts at 18:00 or 18:30. If you have dinner at the ryokan, you need to check in before 18:00. Breakfast was served between 8:00 and 9:00.
If you have any food allergies, please write them in a comment box when you book a room with meals. They probably wouldn’t be able to prepare alternative food if you request on that day.
Then there is no restaurant around here. You may want to book a room including meals.
Have a nice trip! Welcome to receive any questions about Wanosato from the below space.
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Info about Wanosato
| Style | Luxury Onsen Ryokan |
|---|---|
| Check-in and out times |
15:00/11:00 |
| Estimated Price | 80,000 JPY for 2 adults per room |
| Contact | |
| Internet Connection | Free Wifi in the lobby only |
| Facility Information | Wheelchairs are not available Pets are not allowed The free parking lot is available |
| Location | Wanosato’s MAP |
| Access | Free shuttle bus from Takayama Statio Need to book it in advance |
| Address and TEL | Tel +81 |
| Official Homepage | Wanosato’s HP |
*All information above is as of the date that I posted on my blog.
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