What kind of ryokan is Yoyokaku?
In June, during the rainy season of hot and humid days, I was in Fukuoka on a business trip. The day before returning to Tokyo, I decided to go sightseeing in Karatsu, an hour and a half train ride from Hakata Station, and stay at the historic and traditional Yoyokaku.
To get straight to the point, it is a small ryokan with only 20 rooms, but it is a wonderful place where the history and traditions of Karatsu are concentrated. As soon as I stepped into the room, I could smell the fragrance of history and traditions that have been accumulated over more than 100 years. In particular, the Japanese architecture, Japanese garden, Japanese-style hospitality, and cuisine were wonderful. Although not as glamorous as a super-luxury ryokan, I thought this ryokan, which combines simplicity and high quality at the same time, is rare.
I had lunch at Hakata Station around noon on Saturday, and after 1:00 p.m., I took the airport subway line from Hakata Station to Chikuzen-Maebaru Station, transferred to the Chikuhi Line bound for Karatsu, and got off at Higashi-Karatsu Station. From there, I caught a cab and arrived at the ryokan in about 5 minutes.
Nestled in a town near the coast, this ryokan was located in an ordinary residential area in the countryside. As I entered a narrow street from the main street, I saw the ryokan with its tasteful exterior with built-in latticework. As I got off the cab in front of the entrance, I could smell the scent of the sea. Upon entering the ryokan, the stone pavement at the magnificent entrance was sprinkled with sprinkled water, creating a dignified feeling in the air. The high ceiling and wide entranceway is said to have been where rickshaws used to stop to pick up and drop off guests in the old days. There was also a small room to the left of the entrance where the wheelmen waited. Stepping inside the ryokan, one was enveloped in a somewhat modern ambience, while still exuding the air of a long-established ryokan.
Then as soon as I arrived at the entrance, I was greeted by a staff member dressed in a kimono. I took off my shoes and changed into slippers. The staff then showed me to the lounge near the entrance. The lounge was a wonderful place, created by a famous interior designer, with comfortable custom-made chairs made of rattan, and a large wall of windows overlooking a magnificent Japanese garden. It was truly a relaxing space where I could spend some quiet time while experiencing the history and traditions of Karatsu. It was an instant relief from the fatigue of my business trip. I checked in here, and after a few moments, a staff member showed me to my room.
The connecting corridor of the sukiya-style architecture leading to the rooms was surrounded by 200-year-old pine trees. Beyond the pine trees, which numbered more than 100, was a dry landscape garden that had been created over many years with nature. In the corner of the garden, chrysanthemum blossoms floated on a stone basin called tsukubai, and Nishiki-koi carp could be seen swimming gracefully in the pond. The historic connecting corridor creaked with the sound of people walking and the sound of waves could be heard from outside.
The room I stayed in was called Tonbo no Ma, a spacious room on the first floor. It was a wonderful traditional Japanese room with a hanging scroll in the alcove, a tea incense burner and a purple gentian flower arrangement. On the other side of the shoji doors, a black tiled veranda called engawa was furnished with modern chairs and a table made of modern rattan. Large windows overlooked a Japanese garden. The 200-year-old black pine tree with its dark brown trunk and dark green leaves gave a sense of strength. The Japanese garden was directly accessible from the engawa of the room. Wooden clogs called geta were provided on the engawa. I was told that the ambience of each room and the view from the window is so different that regular guests request to stay in a different room each time. I requested a room on the first floor with a view of the old pine trees in the Japanese garden.
For a while, I decided to sit on a wicker chair on the engawa and relax with a cup of Japanese tea. When I opened the window, I felt a gentle breeze and smelled the scent of the sea. It felt somewhat nostalgic, and for a modern person like me who had never lived in a Japanese-style house, it was a precious experience.
After this, I decided to go to communal baths with HEAL stone water. This ryokan does not have a hot spring, but the water came out through Heal stone, so it had a warming effect. The bathtub was made of black granite, which was also pleasant to the touch, and the floor was covered with Fukko-ishi, a stone that is non-slip even when wet. Also, the walls were made of hinoki cypress, so the bathroom was filled with the scent of hinoki cypress.
After enjoying the communal bath, I took a walk around the building and looked at the two galleries near the lounge. The small galleries displayed various Karatsu-yaki vessels made by famous potters. Karatsu-yaki dishes were used for dinner and Arita-yaki dishes were used for breakfast.
This ryokan consists of three buildings, the main building, east wing, and west wing, connected by corridors. Just walking around the ryokan, one could feel the craftsman’s design everywhere, from the red pine floor posts and bark pillars to the bamboo floor, and the woven bamboo ceilings. Also, the interest was further heightened when I paid attention to the details of the rooms, such as traditional transom windows called ranma, tatami mats, frame of shoji paper sliding-door screens, which made the time spent appreciating the architecture even more enjoyable.
It was time to get hungry. When I returned to my room, the staff was preparing dinner. For dinner, I could choose between a fish course and a shabu-shabu course of Saga black wagyu beef. I chose the shabu shabu course. The wagyu beef from Saga Prefecture was served with a homemade sesame sauce. It was more than I expected and the quantity was very tasty. And after dinner, the staff laid out a futon for me in the Japanese-style room.
The next morning, I woke up a little after 6:30 and decided to go for a walk to the beach, which was only a few minutes’ walk away. As I walked, listening to the sound of the waves, I saw in front of me a beautiful sandy beach glistening in the morning sun. I was also impressed by the calm waves, the clear blue ocean, and the nearby islands. Looking up a little, I saw Karatsu Castle sitting proudly in the distance. In this area, I saw locals walking and jogging in the early morning.
After returning to the ryokan, I headed to the dinning area. For breakfast, you can choose between white rice and barley porridge. Using local ingredients, there were Japanese dishes that went well with rice, such as tofu, kombu small fish, and moromi miso, etc. Having breakfast while viewing the Japanese garden bathed in the morning sun was exceptional. It’s not a private room, but the tables are well spaced, so it’s a calm ambiance.
After breakfast, I has coffee in the lounge and looked at the Japanese garden for a while, then went back to my room, packed up, checked out before 10:00, and took a taxi back to Higashi-Karatsu Station. This time, I visited Karatsu while on a business trip to Fukuoka, so my schedule was hectic. After checking out, I wanted to see the Karatsu sea from Karatsu Castle, so I would like to look forward to it next time.
Check Availability and Pricing for the ryokan on Agoda
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Is the location easy to access?
It takes 90 minutes from Hakata Station to Higashi-Karatsu Station by train. The ryokan is near Higashi-Karatsu Station. It takes less than 5 minutes by cab and costs about 800 yen. There is no free shuttle service.
Rooms I would recommend?
If you are going to stay here, I would recommend a room on 1F. The Japanese garden with old pine trees will be more beautiful from the rooms on the first floor.
Also, 7 of the 19 rooms have bathrooms with cypress bathtubs. The other rooms have bathrooms but no hinoki bathtub. Those who do not use the communal baths may want to book a room with a hinoki bathtub.
Then if you have a lot of luggage, you may want to request a room on the first floor, as it is a bit difficult to go up and down. There are no elevators.
How about toiletries & in-room amenities?
All of the amenities are taken care of including minimum toiletries, yukatas, and a Japanese tea set, etc. A humidifier was placed in our room. Complimentary coffee is available at the lounge. Room service is not available. The free WiFi reception was good on the property. A PC for guests to use had been installed in the lounge.
Also, this is child-friendly. Staff provides yukatas, meals, and tableware for small children if you request in advance.
How about In-house Facilities?
Although Yoyokaku is not a universal design, there are few steps if you stay in a room on the first floor. If you are bringing a person with weak legs, please inform staff in advance so that they can arrange for a room on the first floor. Wheelchairs are available for borrowing.
Then there are indoor communal baths with HEAL stone water. They are not hot springs. They are open between 6:00 and 23:00. *If you have tattoos, you may not be permitted to use the communal bathing areas.
There is a vending machine for drinks in the ryokan, but there are no convenience stores within a 5-minute walking distance. It is advisable to purchase necessary items in advance.
Check Availability and Pricing for the ryokan on Agoda
Info about Yoyokaku
| Style | Traditional Ryokan |
|---|---|
| Check-in and out times |
15:00/10:00 |
| Estimated Price | 50,000 JPY for 2 adults per room |
| Contact E-mail |
info@yoyokaku.com |
| Internet Connection | Free WiFi in the ryokan |
| Facility Information | Wheelchairs are available Pets are not allowed The free parking lot is available |
| Location | Yoyokaku’s MAP |
| Access | 90 min by train from Hakata Station |
| Address and TEL | 2-4-40 Higashikaratsu, Karatsu-shi Saga 847-0017 Tel +81 955-72-7181 |
| Official Homepage | Yoyokaku’s HP |
*All information above is as of the date that I posted on my blog.
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