This is a review of our stay at Asaba Ryokan.
On a beautiful weekend in late November when the leaves were changing colors, my husband and I stayed at Asaba Ryokan in Shuzenji, Izu, a ryokan that we had always dreamed of visiting. Every time we visited Shuzenji Onsen and passed by the stately gate of Asaba Ryokan, we always wished to stay in one someday. To get straight to the point, everything was first class. No further explanation is needed.
We took The Odoriko from Tokyo Station and got off at the last stop, Shuzenji Station. The trip took about 130 minutes. Then we took a cab from in front of the station. After a 10-minute cab ride, we arrived at Asaba Ryokan, located in Shuzenji Onsen. We got out of the cab in front of the splendid gate that stands in a corner along the Katsura River, passed through the gate like that of a samurai residence, and entered through the entrance of the building with a noren painted with indigo dyes. The interior was stunning, incorporating all the traditional Japanese building techniques available in the present day. The ceiling was made of quarter-sawn Yoshinosugi cedar, the floor was made of Naguri, a wood of the highest craftsmanship, and there was a Noh stage in the Japanese garden. In particular, the Noh stage, which floats on a vast pond of 2000 ㎡, was a symbol of the ryokan. It is still used as a Noh stage, and Kyogen, Kabuki, and Japanese drum performances are held there regularly.
Then the contemporary artworks, traditional crafts, and Yi Dynasty furniture displayed in the ryokan were in natural harmony. The wonderful artworks did not have any tags with the artist’s names or titles on them. They must have known that it would make it impossible to get a sense of the experience.
Then from the moment we entered the ryokan, everything was remarkably unified. Its concept, I feel, is a fusion of tradition and innovation. It is not uncommon in Japan for ryokans like Asaba Ryokan to boast a history of over 500 years, but this ryokan was outstanding in its commitment to preserving its history and traditions, passing them on to the next generation, and subtly adding modern conveniences.
We took off our shoes at the entrance and were immediately shown to our room by the staff. This time, we stayed in a room called “Hagi” on the first floor. Pulling the sliding door, we entered the room and found a Japanese-style living room with a large veranda on the left, a private hot spring bath with a view of a Japanese garden in the center, and a bedroom with twin beds on the right. The tatami alcove in the Japanese-style living room was decorated with seasonal scrolls and wildflowers. Overall, the simple yet elegant Japanese room decorations surrounded by an air of quality quietly evoked the aesthetics of wabi-sabi.
After checking in in our room, the staff prepared tea and mugwort fu confections for us, so we decided to relax in our room for a while. We were often impressed by the magnificent Japanese garden, which we could see from the large porch, where we could feel the changing of nature from season to season. A stream flowed silently nearby, and the beautiful green moss, maple trees with red leaves, and bamboo grove in the back swaying in the gentle breeze looked like a large Japanese painting.
A short time later we changed into yukatas with dragonfly patterns and decided to visit the communal outdoor and indoor onsen baths on the first floor. The outdoor onsen bath by the pond was especially wonderful. In addition, there are two private family baths on the ryokan grounds. The private family baths are locked and completely private. Moreover, they are free to use whenever available.
After enjoying the communal baths, we went to the salon on the first floor. On the warm, modern brick walls painted white, there was a yellow and white paneled artwork by Daniel Buren and Beltier’s masterpiece, the Diamond Chairs, also in white. The salon offered complimentary coffee, tea, and orange juice.
After this, we headed to the terrace in front of the lobby on the first floor to see a Japanese drum performance on a floating stage over the pond. Although some rooms allow you to watch the performance while in your room, we could not see it from our room. So we were given special seats on the terrace. When it was getting dark and the sun was gradually setting, a Japanese drum performance started. Nishikigoi carp swam gracefully in the pond, the illuminated Noh stage and bamboo grove created an ethereal atmosphere, and a perfectly round moon floated in the sky. The powerful sound of Japanese drums vibrated through my body, and I was moved by the realism of the performance. It was a cold night, but blankets, and hot-air warmers were provided so that we could watch the performance while staying warm.
After this, it was time for dinner, so when we returned to our room, the staff began preparing dinner. Although the kaiseki dishes were not flashy, the fresh and seasonal ingredients and the time-consuming cooking methods used were all very impressive. In particular, the chicken hot pot, a staple dish from fall through winter, had a rich flavor that conveyed the taste of the ingredients. There was also a wide selection of champagne, white wine, and red wine. Basically, all meals are served in the rooms.
After dinner, we headed to the communal outdoor onsen baths again. From the outdoor onsen bath, I enjoyed a spectacular view that was different from the one I had enjoyed during the daytime. Soaking in the outdoor onsen bath for a while and looking at the illuminated bamboo grove and maple trees with bright red autumn leaves, I felt as if I had wandered into the world of Japanese folk tales.
The next morning, I woke up around 7:00 a.m. and decided to sit on a deck chair on the veranda in the living room, listening to the murmuring of the stream and looking out at the wonderful Japanese garden bathed in the morning sun. The furniture and the interior of the room were so well-calculated in terms of color scheme and arrangement that it was easy to lose track of time as I sat there for a while, relaxed and comfortable.
Then, before 8:00 a.m., the staff came to our room and began preparing breakfast. Breakfast was only Japanese, no Western food. There were no special ingredients and no special menu, but the food was surprisingly delicious. For example, the dashimaki omelets. Many ryokans serve dashimaki omelets for breakfast, but the dashimaki omelets at this ryokan were exceptional. We also enjoyed champagne while watching the bright red maple leaves sparkle and dance in the gentle breeze. The fine bubbles and elegant aroma of the champagne added to the special and uplifting experience. We are usually in a hurry to finish breakfast, but this special breakfast was a very luxurious time for us to savor while enjoying the view of the beautiful Japanese garden and the soothing sound of the flowing stream.
After breakfast, we fully enjoyed the private onsen in our room while gazing at the red pines and maple leaves in the fall. We checked out before 11:00 a.m., went sightseeing in Shuzenji Onsen, and headed home. Our stay here taught us once again the beauty of Japan.
Check Availability and Pricing for the ryokan on Agoda
TOP3 Best Traditional Ryokans in Izu, Shizuoka
TOP3 Best Hotels and Ryokans with Private Onsen in Izu, Shizuoka
TOP3 Best Hotels and Ryokans for Families in Izu, Shizuoka
Is the location easy to access?
From Tokyo Station, take the Shinkansen to Mishima Station, transfer to The Izu Hakone Sunzu Line, and get off at the last stop, Shuzenji Station. The time required is approximately 100 minutes.
Alternatively, from Tokyo Station, take The Odoriko to Shuzenji Station, which takes about 130 minutes. It is convenient because there are no transfers, but there are few trains.
Then take a cab from Shuzenji Station. The trip takes 7 minutes. The fare is about 1,100 yen. There is no free shuttle bus service.
Alternatively, take The TOKAI Bus or The Izu Hakone Bus bound for Shuzenji Onsen from the bus stops in front of Shuzenji Station. The Tokai Bus stop No. 3 and The Izu Hakone Bus stop No. 1. Fares are 220 yen for adults and 110 yen for children. Then get off at the last stop, Shuzenji Onsen Bus Stop. It takes 10 minutes by bus. From the bus stop to the property is a 10-minute walk.
How about toiletries & in-room amenities?
All of the amenities are taken care of including enough toiletries, yukatas, pajamas, bathrobes, a coffee machine and a Japanese tea set, etc. Staff can prepare skincare products if you request. Also, a DVD player and a Bose speaker were placed in our room. The free Wifi reception was good. Room service is not available. Complimentary coffee, tea, and orange juice, etc., are available at the salon on 1F. You can fully enjoy viewing a beautiful traditional garden while having coffee.
Then there are no amenities for children. Children can stay 7 years old and up. The place is not suitable for families with small children.
How about In-house Facilities?
There are wonderful indoor and outdoor communal onsen baths. There are also two private family onsen baths, which can be locked up at any time and used completely privately and free of charge. All of them are open from 14:30-10:00 the following morning.
Then tattooed persons may not be allowed to use the communal onsen baths. Instead, please use the private family onsen baths or book a room with a private onsen bath.
Check Availability and Pricing for the ryokan on Agoda
Info about Asaba Ryokan
| Style | Traditional Ryokan |
|---|---|
| Check-in and out times |
14:30/11:30 |
| Estimated Price | 120,000 JPY for 2 adults per room |
| Contact | info@asaba-ryokan.com |
| Internet Connection | Free WiFi in the ryokan |
| Facility Information | Wheelchairs are not available Pets are not allowed The free parking lot is available |
| Location | Asaba Ryokan’s MAP |
| Access | 7min by TAXI from Shuzenji Station |
| Address and TEL | 〒410-2416 Shizuoka, Izu-shi, Shuzenji, Shuzenji-machi 3450-1 Tel +81 558-72-7000 |
| Official Homepage | Asaba Ryokan’s HP |
*All information above is as of the date that I posted on my blog.
Still not sure where to stay in Izu, Shizuoka?
Browse through my TOP3 Ranking Lists of all the best places to stay in Izu.
Alternatively, you could leave a message at the below space for advice.