This is a review of our stay at Ryokan Miyama Sansou.
My husband and I visited Kurokawa Onsen during the cold, snowy winter season. We stayed at Oyado Noshiyu on the first day and at this ryokan on the second day. To get straight to the point, we were impressed by the sight of the traditional houses with shingle roofs scattered around the grounds, which were organized like a single village with fields. It was truly a “luxury” that one could feel without having to do anything. In my opinion, the sister ryokan Yamamizuki next door is also a wonderful place, but this ryokan has more sophisticated amenities and a private hot spring, while recreating a traditional country setting.
We decided to check out at Oyado Noshiyu before 11:00 am and take a walk around the Kurokawa hot spring resort area. Later, before 3:00 pm, we were picked up from the hot spring town by staff and arrived at Ryokan Miyama Sansou, where we would be staying for the night. The ryokan was located a short distance from the hot spring resort area. We got off the shuttle bus in front of the reception building and entered through the white noren curtained entrance to find a lobby with a café-like atmosphere, where we completed check-in procedures. The staff then prepared blueberry yokan jelly and green tea for us.
After a short while, a staff member guided us by resort cart to the villa where we would be staying for the night. There were eight kayabuki roof villas scattered throughout the spacious grounds. On top of that, all of them have private hot springs. We rode in the cart and during the ride to the villas, the staff explained the grounds to us. We could hear the sound of a babbling river flowing nearby. Looking around, we saw snow-covered fields and buildings with kayabuki roofs, which gave the area a quaint atmosphere. I felt as if I had wandered into the world of a Japanese folktale.
This time we stayed at a villa called Soyokazean. At the entrance was a small garden with a camellia tree with pink flowers and moss lightly covered with snow. After taking off our shoes at the entrance and entering the room, we found a modern, lean interior that belied its exterior, with a black leather recliner, couch, and table in the living room, twin beds and writing desk in the bedroom, a spacious bathroom, and a wonderful private hot spring bath. The lighting was warm and soft, creating a space surrounded by soft light. From the window in the living room, one could see a small garden covered with snow and the kayabuki roof of a nearby villa. It was like a Japanese-style villa deep in the mountains.
We brewed coffee in an illy espresso coffee maker, then sat on the couch and enjoyed the snowy landscape and blue skies glistening in the sunlight through the windows for a while. We then decided to visit communal onsen baths before dinner. The large bathhouse was about a 3-minute walk from the villa where we stayed. We changed into yukatas and geta (Japanese wooden clogs) and stepped outside to hear the chirping of sparrows. As we strolled along the narrow, snow shoveled paths, listening to the sound of the getas, we were simply amazed at the wonderful traditional rural landscape and the natural beauty of the ryokan.
We wondered if the traditional kayabuki roof houses scattered around the site had originally been renovated, but unfortunately, when we asked the staff about them, they were newly built a few years ago. However, traditional houses with kayabuki roofs that incorporate modern amenities are very expensive to maintain. We strongly felt the spirit and constant efforts of the owners and staff to recreate this original Japanese landscape for the guests to enjoy.
Then if you find it a hassle to walk around the spacious grounds, or if it is raining or snowing, or if you are with a person with limited mobility, the staff will always provide a resort cart to take you to and from your villa.
Then although we arrived at the large bathhouse before 5:00 p.m., they were very crowded, perhaps because it was the weekend. The large bathhouse tends to be crowded on weekends because some people stop by on their way to enjoy an onsen hopping. When we entered the large women’s communal onsen baths, there were indoor and outdoor baths, but it was crowded, so I soaked in the indoor bath for a while to warm up and returned to my room shortly afterwards. Ryokan’s large bathhouses tend to be crowded before dinner, so it is advisable to use them before breakfast or after dinner. Then guests can also use the large baths at the sister ryokan Yamamizuki next door.
Returning to my room, I took out a ginger ale from the mini-bar and sat on the couch in the living room to quench my thirst for a while. It was just dusk, and the sky was gradually darkening. I saw a few crows flying in the sky, caw caw. Crows in Tokyo are somewhat eerie, but crows in the countryside deep in the mountains have a certain poetic charm.
Then, since dinner was at 6:00, we headed to the restaurant building, a three-minute walk away. When we arrived at the dining area, the staff showed us to our private room. Dinner was a sophisticated kaiseki meal. The elegant serving dishes and the carefully prepared broth created a mild taste. The marinated sea bream, wagyu beef steak, and chicken dumpling pot were especially delicious. The dishes were enjoyed with a bottle of Chablis La Pierrelle white wine, which had a rich aroma of lemon, apple, and pear.
After dinner, when we left the restaurant building, there was a dusting of snow. It had not been snowing until a few minutes ago, but it began to fall like dancing snow. I had a feeling that it was going to pile up tonight. The darkness of the night and the night view created by the soft light emitted from the lanterns was too beautiful to describe and made me feel nostalgic. Returning to our room, we were enveloped in a cozy feeling of coming home. We decided to sit on the couch and drink a bottle of Japanese sake from Kumamoto Prefecture, which we had bought during the day at Goto Liquor Store in the hot spring resort area.
The next morning, we woke up around 7:00 a.m. and headed to the restaurant building on the property for breakfast at around 8:00 a.m. The snow that fell last night had piled up on the paths, making it difficult to walk, but the natural beauty of the snowy landscape on the grounds was breathtaking. When I asked the staff about the ryokan grounds, I was told that they used to be terraced rice paddies, and that they were created by utilizing the terraced rice paddies and the difference in elevation.
After this, when we arrived at the dining area, the staff showed us to the same private dining room where we had dinner last night. We were served a Japanese breakfast. The menu included grilled sweetfish, Japanese omelette, simmered radish, pork and hot vegetables, local milk, etc. It seemed that breakfast was only Japanese and no Western food was available.
After breakfast, we enjoyed the wonderful private onsen in our room until we checked out. The windows surrounding the private indoor onsen were set in a wooden frame like a shoji door, with glass inlaid into the frames, so I could look out at the blue sky and snowy landscape while soaking in the bathtub. I opened the window fully to feel the outside air. Then the sound of the hot spring water flowing down from the bathtub reverberated through the bathroom, and when I closed my eyes, I felt like I was in another world.
After this, we checked out of the ryokan before 11:00 a.m. and had a staff member take us to Kurokawa Onsen bus stop. We then took an express bus back to Fukuoka City.
Overall, we were impressed by the nostalgic feeling of the world. It is probably the only ryokan that is organized like a single traditional village. In addition, all the staff were extremely helpful. The warmth of the hospitality was very pleasant. Hope to visit again in the spring or fall.
Check Availability and Pricing for the ryokan on Agoda
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Is the location easy to access?
It takes about three hours by express bus from Nishitetsu Tenjin Express Bus Terminal in Fukuoka City or Fukuoka Airport to Kurokawa Onsen Bus Stop. The express buses are equipped with Wi-Fi, power outlets, blankets, and toilets. The seats are spacious, so you can enjoy a comfortable bus ride. Please refer the information.
Alternatively, you can take the kyushu Odan Bus from Kumamoto Station to Kurokawa Onsen bus stop, which takes about 2 hours and 45 minutes, or about 2 hours from Aso Kumamoto Airport.
Reservations are required for both of the above buses. The number of buses to Kurokawa Onsen is limited, so be sure to make a reservation in advance. In particular, buses arriving at Kurokawa Onsen Bus Stop around 15:00 are often fully booked.
Then please use a free shuttle service from Kurokawa onsen bus stop. Inform staff in advance. It takes less than 10 minutes by car from the bus stop.
From the end of November to the middle of March, there is a possibility of frozen roads and snow accumulation. If you are coming by car, you will need to use tire chains or studless tires.
This ryokan is located deep in the mountains, 2km from the onsen town. The road width is very narrow, and a little steep, so you need to drive while sharing the road with oncoming cars. You may feel stressed by this.
How about toiletries & in-room amenities?
All of the amenities are taken care of including minimum toiletries, pajamas, samue outfits, an illy coffee machine with capsules, a green tea set, and a complimentary mini-bar. Also, a humidifier and a DVD player were placed in our room. Free WiFi reception was excellent. The internet speed was fast. There is a vending machine for drinks. Room service is available until 22:00.
Then there is no convenience store near the ryokan, but Goto Liquor Store is like a convenience store in the onsen town. You can buy local sake, beer, wine, milk, souvenirs, groceries, and daily necessities, etc. The store is open between 8:40 and 22:00. It is about a 5-minute drive from the ryokan to the store.
How about In-house Facilities?
The indoor and outdoor communal onsen baths on the ryokan grounds were great. The spring quality was soft, smooth, and moist. Also, you can use communal onsen baths in the sister inns, Yamamizuki and Yama no Yado Shinmeikan free of charge. Yamamizuki is next door and a 5-minute walk away. Yama no Yado Shinmeikan, located in the onsen town, is an 5-minute free shuttle bus ride away.
*Please note that if you have tattoos, you may not be permitted to use all of the communal onsen baths.
Then this is not a perfect universal design but there are few steps. Also, wheelchairs are available for borrowing. All rooms have twin beds and private onsen baths. If you need to get around, the staff will provide you with a resort cart to take you there.
Then many of the ryokans in Kurokawa Onsen are built with traditional wooden architecture, so you can often hear the sounds of doors opening and closing, footsteps, and people talking in the hallways. However, since this is a mountain villa type ryokan, it is a very quiet environment. Recommended for people who are light sleepers. Also, people over the age of 13 can stay here.
How about meals?
On the day we stayed, breakfast was Japanese only, but you can usually choose between Western or Japanese food. All meals are served in private rooms in the dining area. Dinner starts from 18:00 to 20:00. Breakfast starts between 7:30 and 9:00.
Then as far as I know, there are no restaurants near the ryokan. Also, local restaurants, cafes, and souvenir shops in Kurokawa Onsen Town close around 6 p.m. We would recommend booking a room with meals included.
Have a nice trip! Welcome to receive any questions about Ryokan Miyama Sansou from the below space. Check Availability and Pricing for the ryokan on Agoda
Info about Ryokan Miyama Sansou
| Style | Japanese style Villa |
|---|---|
| Check-in and out times |
15:00/11:00 |
| Estimated Price | 60,000 JPY for 2 adults per room |
| Contact E-mail |
info@miyama-sansou.com |
| Internet Connection | Free WiFi in the ryokan |
| Facility Information | Wheelchairs are available Pets are not allowed The free parking lot is available |
| Location | Ryokan Miyama Sansou’s MAP |
| Access | Free pick-up service from Kurokawa Onsen Bus Stop |
| Address and TEL | 6393 Manganji, Aso-gun, Minamioguni-machi, Kumamoto 869-2402 Tel +81 967-44-1101 |
| Official Homepage | Ryokan Miyama Sansou’s HP |
*All information above is as of the date that I posted on my blog.
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